Goals
Time period
Country
Location Description
Methods in 1st segment
- consolidated on Greenpeace website
Methods in 2nd segment
Methods in 3rd segment
Methods in 4th segment
Methods in 5th segment
Methods in 6th segment
- Detox rebranding stickers on H&M storefronts
Additional methods (Timing Unknown)
Segment Length
Notes on Methods
Leaders
Partners
External allies
Involvement of social elites
Opponents
Nonviolent responses of opponent
Campaigner violence
Repressive Violence
Cluster
Classification
Group characterization
Groups in 1st Segment
Segment Length
Success in achieving specific demands/goals
Survival
Growth
Total points
Notes on outcomes
Database Narrative
On 12 July 2011 Greenpeace released a report titled
“Dirty Laundry” naming H&M as the largest clothing manufacturer amongst a
number of international brands linked to textile manufacturing facilities in
Indonesia and China discharging hazardous chemicals local water systems. The facilities’ discharge waters had dangerous
levels of caustic and hazardous substances present, including endocrine
disruptor nonylphenol and solvent tribuyl phosphate.
After Greenpeace mobilized online signatures on their
“Detox Fashion Manifesto” they quickly won textile policy changes from major retailers
Nike, Adidas, and Puma. However, H&M
refused to respond to initial Greenpeace communications and sharing of petition
signatures. On 13 September 2011
Greenpeace escalated its tactics with H&M.
Mobilizing their global network, Greenpeace quickly
pushed for H&M “rebranding” across the world. On 15 September 2011 activists placed large “DETOX
our water” and “DETOX the future” stickers over the windows of H&M stores
in twelve countries (including China, France, Germany, and Sweden). Activists shared information about hazardous
chemicals within H&M’s supply chain in front of stores during peak business
hours. Greenpeace blasted communication
over online networks as well, and mobilized thousands of tweets and facebook
posts from concerned customers.
On 20 September 2011 H&M responded to customer pressure and pledged to publish
information about chemicals released by factories in its supply chain. Furthermore, the company promised to remove
hazardous chemicals from its supply chain completely by 2020.
Under continued
Greenpeace pressure and online attention, H&M published a detailed version
of their new Restricted Substance list on their website on 25 October 2011.
Influences
Greenpeace styled its campaign against H&M slightly after it's other anti-corporate campaigns and certainly after its successful July 2011 campaign targeting Nike's use of hazardous chemicals in its supply chain (1).
This campaign likely informed Greenpeace's current efforts to "detox" Gap's supply chain. (2)
Sources
"Detox Our Future." Greenpeace International. Greenpeace, 2013. Web. Apr. 2013. <http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/campaigns/toxics/water/detox/>.
"Detox Timeline." Greenpeace International. Greenpeace, 2013. Web. Apr. 2013. <http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/campaigns/toxics/water/detox/Detox-Timeline/>.
Joint Roadmap: Toward Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals. Rep. H&M, 15 Nov. 2011. Web. Apr. 2013. <http://www.c-and-a.com/uk/en/corporate/fileadmin/templates/master/img/fashion_updates/International_Press_Releases/111118_JointRoadmap.pdf>.
"Polluting Paradise: Big Brands Including Gap Exposed in Indonesian Toxic Water Scandal." Water World. PennWell Corporation, 2011. Web. Apr. 2013. <http://www.waterworld.com/news/2013/04/18/polluting-paradise-big-brands-including-gap-exposed-in-indonesian-toxic-water-scandal.html>.
"Towards Zero Discharge." H&M. H&M, 2013. Web. Apr. 2013. <http://about.hm.com/AboutSection/en/About/Sustainability/Commitments/Use-Resources-Responsibly/Chemicals/Zero-Discharge.html>.
Whittle, Thomas. "Greenpeace Reveals Int’l Fashion Brands Involvement in Indonesian Toxic Water Problem." NZweek. NZweek, 18 Apr. 2013. Web. Apr. 2013. <http://www.nzweek.com/world/greenpeace-reveals-intl-fashion-brands-involvement-in-indonesian-toxic-water-problem-60230/>.